Get Sewing: How to Choose the Correct Thread
/At EverSewn, we recognize that accomplishing setting up your machine is more than half the battle, so we welcome you to our series “Get Sewing.” We’ll walk you through all the setup steps and will be here for reference until it all becomes old hat. So far, we’ve covered how to wind a bobbin, how to thread your sewing machine, and how to choose a needle for your project.
In this article, we’ll talk about choosing the right type of thread for your machine and project. We’ll discuss the differences in common types of thread and how to make sure you’re using the right thread to achieve your end goal (with as little frustration as possible!). As always, please also refer to the manual for your specific machine. Many of the concepts are the same for any sewing machine, but there may be some slight differences.
Choosing Thread Color
Thread can be purely functional - simply sewing your seams together and blending into your fabric. Or it can be decorative, standing out and contrasting with your fabric.
If your goal is to make your thread blend in with your project, it’s a good strategy to have a sample of your fabric with you when choosing thread color. If you’re working with patterned fabric, choose the most prominent color to blend your thread.
If you’d like your thread to contrast with your fabric color and stand out in your project, revisit your elementary school art lessons on the color wheel. Choose a color from the opposite side of the wheel than the color of your fabric and your thread will stand out against your fabric and look gorgeous!
No matter your goal, blending in or standing out, there is a full spectrum rainbow of thread colors from which to choose!
Common Types of Thread
On top of being spoiled for choice in thread color, there is also a wide range of thread types from which to choose! Let’s talk about the common types of thread available and general ways to use them.
Cotton Thread - This thread has a low sheen and little stretch. This type of thread has a wide range of uses from quilting to embroidery and decorative stitching. When working with light and medium weight cotton, linen, or rayon choose a medium weight thread.
Polyester Thread - The true hero of the thread section. If you’re starting a thread stash, this type of thread is the one you’ll want to stock up on most. Polyester thread is strong, has some stretch, is colorfast, is heat and mildew resistant, and comes in every color imaginable. Polyester thread typically has a wax or silicone coating that allows it to pass through fabric with less friction.
Embroidery Thread - Machine embroidery thread is typically polyester or rayon and is a slightly lighter weight than standard polyester thread. The lighter weight helps avoid needle breakage on multi-layer machine embroidery projects and allows the thread to lay flat on your embroidery projects.
Silk Thread - This luxurious thread is strong and is your go-to choice when sewing on silk or wool fabric.
Metallic Thread - A bold style choice, metallic thread is thread that has been wrapped in thin metal and can add some extra bling to your project! It’s important to use a new needle and thread net when sewing with metallic thread to avoid damage and frustration.
Heavy-Duty Thread - We’re betting you know the usage for this thread! Heavy-duty thread is polyester thread, but is much thicker than the standard polyester thread and should be used when sewing on heavier fabrics.
Tips for Choosing the Right Thread
We would be remiss if we didn’t warn you against the bargain basement threads you find in the clearance bins. The money you save on the cheap thread will be less and less worth it as your frustration grows with broken needles and snapped thread when working on your project. While we completely understand that buying the highest quality thread available is expensive, we strongly encourage you to buy the best thread that fits your budget. Investment in good quality thread will go a long way toward making your sewing experience problem-free and will help your final product be as durable as possible.
Thread breakage is common, another thing to consider if you’re running into this problem is the age of your thread. Thread ages and becomes brittle over time just like clothing. If you’re running into problems with your thread and can’t remember how many years ago you purchased it, starting over with new thread might be just what you need.
Many sewists use thread that matches their fabric - cotton thread for natural fibers and polyester for synthetic material. This is a solid strategy, but keep in mind that a quality all-purpose polyester thread or poly-cotton blend thread will serve you well in most circumstances. Most all-purpose thread is 50 weight, and we’ll get into testing out different weights of thread in a future blog post. Who knew there would be so much to say about thread choice?
Some exceptions to the all-purpose polyester or poly-cotton thread rule would be for quilting or sewing masks to donate. Polyester thread is very strong, if it’s stronger than the fabric it’s being used with the thread could tear through the fabric if it gets caught on something. This is why quilters often stick with cotton thread, it’s easier to repair the sewing to a quilt than it is to replace fabric in a quilt. While polyester is stronger it can’t withstand the same high temperatures that cotton can and when medical providers sterilize masks the temperature is hot enough to melt polyester thread.
To learn more about what type of thread is best for specialty projects it’s always a good idea to go right to the thread manufacturer’s website. There are many manufacturers out there, some of our favorites are Mettler, Aurifil, Gutermann, Superior, Isacord, Sulky, and Madeira.
Many sewists end up finding a brand of thread that is their favorite, but that takes trial and error over time. In general, choose a thread that is smooth, doesn’t twist easily, and is mostly fuzz-free. Once you have your thread selected check out our post on how to thread your machine and get sewing!